Have you ever wondered why that viral hair serum leaves your friend’s locks glossy but makes yours a greasy mess? Or why does your hair feel dry even after conditioning?
I used to ask myself the exact same question. The secret, as I eventually discovered, lies entirely in your unique hair profile and hair types.
Finding your hair types and structural textures is truly the ultimate cheat code to unlocking healthy, vibrant hair.
Sadly, many of us spend a fortune on random products. Why? Well, the answer is rather simple – we don’t know what our scalp and strands actually need.
However, once you understand your specific hair profile, you can stop guessing and start investing in treatments that truly work for you.
If you want to figure out which category of hair types YOU fall into, keep reading!
What Are The Different Hair Types?
To make things simple, I like to use the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, which is the gold standard in the beauty industry.
This system divides hair patterns into four distinct numerical categories, from straight to coily.
Furthermore, we split each category into alphabetical subcategories – A, B, and C – based on the exact diameter of your curl or strand.
Here’s how it looks:
| Main Type | Subtype | Visual Texture & Characteristics |
| Straight | 1A | Pin-straight, ultra-fine strands that lay completely flat. |
| 1B | Straight strands with a bit of slight body and micro-thickness. | |
| 1C | Straight but thick, coarse strands that are highly prone to frizz. | |
| Wavy | 2A | Loose, barely-there “S” waves that lie close to your head. |
| 2B | Defined, beachy waves that give you a bit of natural bounce. | |
| 2C | Thick, distinct waves that closely border on loose curls. | |
| Curly | 3A | Big, springy loops about the size of sidewalk chalk. |
| 3B | Bouncy, springy ringlets with the circumference of a Sharpie. | |
| 3C | Tight corkscrews and dense, high-volume spirals. | |
| Coily | 4A | Tight, distinct “S” patterned coils that pack high volume. |
| 4B | Sharp, angular “Z” shaped zig-zag patterns. | |
| 4C | Ultra-dense, fragile coils that experience maximum shrinkage. |
How To Find Out Your Hair Type?
If you want to discover your true pattern, you need to look past just the shape of your hair. Therefore, I recommend following this four-step diagnostic routine right at home to really understand your exact pattern, strand thickness, and density.
Here’s what you should do:
Step 1: The Natural Air-Dry Test (For Shape)
To find your true pattern, you first need to strip away any old product buildup. I always start by washing my hair thoroughly with a good clarifying shampoo.
Next, make sure you completely skip all of your usual conditioners, leave-ins, and styling serums. Afterward, blot your hair gently with a soft microfiber towel and simply let it air-dry.
And finally, take a close look in the mirror. Try to understand three things:
- Do your natural strands lie completely flat as Type 1?
- Do they form Type 2 waves, loop into Type 3 spirals?
- Or do they shrink into tight Type 4 coils?
This is one of the easiest ways to find out about hair types. And trust me, you will have your answer!
Also, to know more about healthy habits of washing your hair, you can check out:
- Is it healthy to wash your hair every day?
- How often should you wash your hair?
Step 2: The Sewing Thread Test (For Texture/Diameter)
Pluck a single shed strand of dry hair and place it next to a piece of standard sewing thread.
- Fine Hair: Your strand looks noticeably thinner than the thread.
- Medium Hair: Your strand matches the thickness of the thread perfectly.
- Coarse Hair: Your strand looks visibly thicker and wider than the thread.
Step 3: The Part Line Test (For Density)
Take a direct look at your dry hair in its natural part line.
- Low Density: You can easily see your scalp without touching or moving your hair.
- Medium Density: You can partially see your scalp with minimal effort.
- High Density: You struggle to see your scalp at all, even when you pull your hair apart.
Step 4: The Float Test (For Porosity)
Drop a clean, product-free strand of your hair into a clear glass of room-temperature water.
- Low Porosity: Your strand floats on the surface for several minutes because your cuticles are sealed tightly shut.
- Medium Porosity: Your strand hovers slowly down to the middle of the glass, showing healthy moisture absorption.
- High Porosity: Your strand drops straight to the bottom immediately because your cuticles are wide open.
Can Hair Types Determine Your Haircare Routine?
Honestly, that is not even a question anymore. I always tell people that their hair profile acts as a direct blueprint for their entire routine.
Sadly, a big error that I find is focusing purely on the curl type. Yes, your curl type defines your hair styling. But it is your porosity and strand thickness that determine your washing and moisturizing habits.
For example, coily hair Type 4 has very sharp bends that stop natural oils from the scalp from moving down the hair strand, which is why it is predisposed to dryness.
On the other hand, Type 1 hair, being straight, faces hardly any obstacles in the way of oil. And that is the reason why the result is a greasy scalp.
After all, understanding these characteristics is what prevents you from going for hair care routines that either weigh down fine hair or dry out coarse coils.
What Is The Best Haircare Routine Based On Hair Types?
After speaking to my dermatologist, while I was trying to fix my dry hair, this is what I learned. Here’s how hair types determine your hair care routines:
Type 1: Straight Hair Routine
Firstly, if you have Type 1 straight hair, your main goals are to maximize volume and reduce grease.
Besides, as we all know, scalp oils travel quickly down straight strands. Therefore, you should wash your hair every one to two days with a volumizing shampoo.
When applying moisture, ensure you use weightless conditioners only from the mid-lengths to the ends.
Also, keeping products away from your roots prevents flatness. For styling, I highly recommend light texturizing mists while carefully avoiding heavy oils.
Type 2: Wavy Hair Routine
Moving on to Type 2 wavy hair, the focus shifts to balancing lightweight moisture while defining your waves.
To achieve this, try washing every two to three days with a sulfate-free balancing shampoo. Next, instead of heavy creams, choose liquid leave-in conditioners to hydrate your strands.
Finally, apply styling mousses while damp using an upward scrunching motion to lock in your pattern.
Type 3: Curly Hair Routine
Thirdly, if you have Type 3 curly hair, your routine must deliver deep hydration and control frizz.
Since curls are naturally dry, you only need to wash once or twice a week using a moisturizing co-wash. So, yes, hair care routine for curly hair is different!
After washing, layer on rich leave-in creams and immediately follow with a light sealing oil. When styling, apply defining gels using the “praying hands” method, then dry with a diffuser.
Type 4: Coily Hair Routine
Last but not least, for Type 4 coily hair, your main aim is to keep it hydrated and healthy, as these strands tend to be quite dry and fragile. Because of this, washing with a creamy cleanser every 7 to 10 days is the best option.
Then, to seal moisture in, go ahead with the L.C.O. method (Liquid Cream Oil). Also, finishing with heavy shea butters and protective hairstyles such as twists can prevent breaking on a daily basis.
